Walking the Big Tree trail on Meares Island is a bit like making a pilgrimage. Aside from the startling beauty of the rainforest, Clayoquot Sound’s first stirring of environmental protest came in 1984 with the proposed logging of Meares Island. Although one clearcut already existed on Meares, the idea of large-scale logging, as intended by MacMillan Bloedel, a logging company operating in the area, was horrifying to many people. At the time of the protest over Meares, one of the trees here was considered the largest cedar in Canada. It was an important find.
Hikers get close to a giant western red cedar trees on Meares Island's Big Tree Trail. (Photo credit, Mike Anderson: www.updownway.com)
A trail was built and posters were made. Meares Island became visible to the public and support began to grow. The boardwalk is a recent addition to this trail, but it follows the route that was established at the time of the protest. The route became so popular that the level of traffic, combined with the dampness, led to a serious problem with mud – the trail became lost in a morass of puddles; sometimes even gumboots were not protection enough for walkers; the forest floor became damaged and in places the fragile habitat of animals such as salamanders was destroyed.
By 1992 some of the boat owners who had been taking people to Meares voluntarily gave up their business in favour of letting the trail recover. The trail was unused for two years. At the same time, the possibility of building a boardwalk was explored. In the end a mixed crew of Tla-o-qui-aht and Tofino workers constructed a section of boardwalk, with financing from the Western Canada Wilderness Committee. But the boardwalk only covers the most travelled section of the trail – from the shoreline starting point to the hanging garden tree, an easy 20-minute walk. The rest of the trail continues on and forms a loop – about an hour and a half’s walk.
Ever-prominent Meares Island over Tofino's harbour. Snow accentuates its presence. Photo credit, Jeff Mikus: www.wildsidegrill.com
Interestingly, this is not the spot where the protest occurred. The action in 1984 took place at Cis-a-qis, also known as Heelboom Bay, on the east side of Meares. This bay was intended by MacMillan Bloedel to be a log sort, or booming area. Response from some of the Tla-o-qui-aht was swift. With help from Tofino locals they constructed a cabin at the head of the bay, and started carving three dugout canoes as a demonstration of their traditional use of the forest. It was also hoped that the sale of these canoes would raise money to save the island. Soon Meares Island was declared a tribal park. The media became interested and pressure between the two sides built, culminating when MacMillan Bloedel tried to conduct their first day’s work. Moses Martin, elected chief of the Tla-o-qui-aht, greeted the forestry workers, welcoming them to his garden, but requesting them to leave their chainsaws in the boat. It was an epic stand-off.
Walking in the stillness and splendour of the rainforest, it’s hard to imagine the emotional turmoil and conflict that took place in 1984, but it’s easy to be grateful for the result.
Excerpted from Paddling Through Time, Raincoast Books.
